Showing posts with label BX. Show all posts
Showing posts with label BX. Show all posts

Thursday, March 2, 2017

My Life in Black

There was never a time in my life that I did not know I was black.

My mother never let me get away with using slang at home. If I used improper English, she would pretend she couldn’t hear me. She ignored me until I said the sentence correctly. When I got to school, my grammar and diction was very different from that of my classmates. They would tell me that I “talked like a white girl.” I didn’t know any white people personally, and probably neither did they, but I did sound like the white people I saw on television. My mom and my teachers told me I just had good grammar.


I never saw being black as a bad thing. Everyone I knew was black, so it wasn’t even like it was a particularly different thing. In second grade, we had a special educator named Mrs. Elizabeth Clarke. She had been to Africa and dressed in bright, dramatic prints. She had a voice and a carriage that demanded respect, although she was little taller than her students. She told us that we were young, gifted and black. She taught us that to be black was to be the strongest of the strong, the descendants of kings and queens that had been stripped of their dignity and yet somehow survived. She taught us that the first people to walk the face of the earth looked like us, that the builders of the pyramids looked like us, that we were the creators of jazz, blues, rock and roll, that we were inventors, doctors, and innovators. I didn’t realize it at the time, but looking back on it now I see that she was preparing us for the death of 1000 paper cuts that is inhabiting a brown body in a white world.


My first ‘deep cut’ came when I was eleven. My mother and I were walking to visit my grandmother at University Hospital. I forget where we had gone before that, maybe the movies up at Severance, but for some reason we were coming down the hill through Little Italy instead of walking up through University Circle. Along the way my mom had to pee. She stopped in several restaurants asking to use their bathroom. All of the restaurants told her that the bathrooms were for customers only and that she could not use them. After the fifth or sixth place told her no, my mom couldn’t hold it any longer and she ended up peeing on herself. She was wearing white linen pants and it was very obvious that she had had an accident. My mother continued to stop in restaurants asking if she could use their bathroom to clean up, and people were very rude to her. I was embarrassed for myself and for her. I couldn’t understand why no one would let us use the bathroom and why my mother had to be humiliated like that. My mother never cried in public, but she cried that day. When I asked her why everyone was being so mean to us, she said: “because we are black, and they don’t like black people in Little Italy.” That was the first time I realized that being black could be a bad thing in some places.


My parents are the same race. All my siblings are the same race. I have a sister and brother that are half Liberian. My father’s great grandfather (on his mother’s side) was a railroad worker from Singapore, but I don’t know anything about them. My mother’s great grandmother (on her father’s side) was Blackfoot, but I don’t know much about them either. My African stepmother and her family are very culturally different from American blacks. They are wealthy and well educated. They live in top cities around the world and have immaculate houses. They look down on American blacks and say we are lazy and too focused on sports instead of education. My stepmother has a thing about knives. She keeps them in the garage instead of the kitchen. I asked her why one time and she told me that she had seen friends and relatives cut apart with knives in front of her, and she did not want them in her house. Her accent is not very heavy but it gets thicker the angrier she gets. I can tell if she and my dad have been fighting by how thick her accent is when she answers the phone.


My mother and father both grew up here in Cleveland. My mother went to Villa Maria Prep School in Pennsylvania for two years. She was one of less than five black students and she hated it. She used to get into fights with the other girls because she was black and poor. She didn’t fit in with the other black students because she was poor. She ran away from school twice and finally my grandmother gave in and let her go to Shaw with the rest of her friends. My mother didn’t have any friends of other races or ethnic groups as an adult. She was very wary of white people and was always reminding me that we were just as good as them.

My father was a musician, so he had many friends of different races and ethnic backgrounds. I didn’t grow up with him, so I’m not sure about a lot of details from his childhood. My father moved to Atlanta in his late twenties and worked for Coca Cola. He didn’t like it and eventually ended up starting his own interior design business. As an interior designer, many of his clients are white. He has had several famous clients like Al Horford and Elton John. My father likes working for white people because he says “They’re not funny with money.”


Growing up, I learned that you have to work half as hard to get twice at much. I thought that individual racism was a problem for my grandparents generation, not mine. I thought that racism used to be a big problem, but it was going away. By middle school I had white and Asian friends. I dated outside my race and it wasn’t a big deal to anyone but our grandparents. By college I had a very diverse group of close friends: an Irish girl, a Fillipina, an Armenian, a Southern Redhead, and me. We called ourselves United Nations. I didn’t have a lot of black female friends because I didn’t fit in with them. It was elementary school all over again and I was tired of being accused of not being black enough. Of course my white friends also told me that I ‘wasn’t really black’, but they meant it as a compliment, and at the time, I took it as one. It wasn’t until my mid twenties that I started to understand internalized and structural racism and some of my assumptions started changing.


I am black. I am black because I am black. What I mean is, people in positions of power will identify me as black because of the color of my skin. Culturally, I feel black because of a set of intangibles and experiences that link me to other people of color, specifically Americans of African descent. Physiologically, I am black because my skin has melanin and my hair is the tightly curled coils of my African ancestors, an evolutionary adaptation to living near the equator. I am proud to be black because I am wonderfully made in the image of God!


I grew up in East Cleveland. When I was a little girl it was a 90% black neighborhood. We had a few white families, but most of them lived ‘up the hill’ near Cleveland Heights, not ‘down the hill’ by me.


I was never not aware that I was black.


My first encounter with race was: I was born. No really. I was born in Booth Memorial hospital, a charity hospital for misguided youth that served a largely black population. Even though my grandmother worked at University Hospital where the world class Rainbow Babies and Children Center was located, that was where white babies went to get born. Booth was for the rest of us.


My grandfather called everyone he didn’t like a nigger, regardless of race. He used to talk about his white boss at the post office. It was always That Jew Nigger this and That Jew Nigger that. I knew that Nigger was a bad word but for a long time I thought Jew was a bad word too because it was only brought up in a negative context in my home.


My mother used to tell me that God knows that everyone is the same, but everyone is not godly. She also used to tell me that I wasn’t like my white friends, that I couldn’t get away with the things they could get away with and not to be stupid. She used to say that being black meant I had to work harder to get the same things that white people would have given to them. My grandfather hated white people and did not want me to associate with them. He used to say that white people were snakes and that they would smile in my face and stab me in the back. My grandmother liked southern whites (she said at least they would tell you to your face if they hated you) and Appalachians but she didn’t like Jews or Asians. She used to say that these ethnic groups thought they were white-- a high offense in her mind. Although she never articulated it that way, I think she saw Jews and Asians as sellouts who used gains that black people earned by blood for their own advantage.


I went to Chambers Elementary. We had about 800 kids and only one white student. His nickname was ‘whiteboy’. I don’t know what his name was. Our teachers were mostly black women. Our principal was a black woman. We had some white teachers and they mostly taught either gifted children or special needs. I was in the gifted program so my second, third, and fourth grade teachers were white.


We learned a lot of black history at Chambers. East Cleveland used to have a citywide Black History Challenge. All six of the elementary schools were given a packet of facts about ‘Black History Heroes’. You had about six weeks to study the packet. At the end of the six weeks, you played a jeopardy style quiz game where you answered questions about the people in the packet. Each classroom champion went on to compete against the other classes. Each grade level champion went on to compete against the other grade level champs. This went on for weeks and the whole school was really into it! A single school champion went on to compete against the school champions from the other five schools until a citywide champ was crowned. I was city champ two years in a row. The third year my mother, grandmother, and aunt convinced me that I should let someone else get a shot, so I threw the competition at the school level and another boy from my class won that year. I returned to be the citywide champ for the third and final time in sixth grade.


On MLK Day, we had a half day assembly. The choir sang, we put on a play, and students and teachers read poetry and excerpts from Dr. King’s speeches.


We didn’t learn much about other ethnic groups outside of blacks and whites. In third grade, we read Sadako and the Thousand Paper Cranes and learned Origami, but even that was in the context of American history and the traumatic fallout from world war two. We learned a little bit about Native Americans, but again in the context of American history. We learned about Pocahontas, Sacagawea, and Sitting Bull. I still don’t know a ton on Native history. We learned next to nothing about Latinos. We learned about the Spanish Inquisition and the Spanish Conquistadors and the Inca and Maya, but nothing about contemporary or historic South Americans or Latinx Islanders.


I was raised Jehovah’s Witness so I didn’t celebrate holidays growing up. I never believed in holidays but I knew that if Santa existed, he had to be white because a black man sneaking into people’s houses at night would surely get arrested. I had black and brown/latina-looking dolls. I watched mainly white shows like Murphy Brown, Boy Meets World, and Friends, but I also watched mainly black shows like Martin, Living Single, Cosby Show and A Different World. I remember getting really excited whenever a person of color was introduced as a white person’s love interest on a mainstream show. When Angela joined the cast of Boy Meets World, I was over the moon. I thought, if Shawn can date Angela, I can date whoever I want too.


My elementary school was all black. My middle school was almost completely white (we had 11 black kids and an Asian) but I still lived in East Cleveland. My congregation was all black, but God was white. Jesus was white. All the angels were white. Noah, Abraham, Solomon, even the Queen of Sheba were depicted as white in the illustrated bible story book I read every night.


For middle and high school, I went to Hawken. My classmates were white. My teachers were white. Even my Spanish teacher was white. In elementary school, my Spanish teacher was Venezuelan. I had been thrust into an all white, mainly upper class world and I didn’t fit in-- not even with the other black students.


Yes, there was interracial dating; yes, I heard racial slurs, and yes, there were conflicts between people of different races and ethnic groups. All the black kids were friends. Even if we hated each other, we stuck up for each other, because there were only 35 of us out of over 400 students. We all called each other cuz, both out of a sense of kinship and because it was confusing to the white students. Interracial dating happened. Mostly it was white girls dating black athletes but occasionally it went the other way too. I remember my freshman year the prom king and queen were multi-ethnic. Matt, the all American square jawed quarterback was dating this Greek and Jordanian model named Cat. She was very brown, almost my complexion, and they were a beautiful couple. They made interracial dating OK at our school. But cross-class dating was more stigmatized. I remember going on one date with an Italian boy. His family owned a chain of grocery stores. His grandmother told me I was “very nice, for a colored girl”. His father seemed to like me okay but his mother was very cold once she found out that I was on scholarship. She asked me if my mother was on welfare. She was, so I said yes. We never went on another date.


Another incident I remember was a Jewish kid in our class picking on this Pakistani boy who was also on scholarship. The Jewish boy said Pakistani women were whores that did it to monkeys, and asked if the Pakistani boy’s mother had ever had sex with a monkey. Of course a fight broke out, and the Pakistani boy soundly whooped the Jewish boys ass. Yet although both students were in the wrong, the Jewish boy got in school suspension and the Pakistani got expelled. This was more fuel for my grandparents fire.


I spent most of middle and high school being too black at school and too white at home. On top of that, I was stigmatized for being a Jehovah’s Witness. Within my denomination, blacks and whites got along, although congregations, cut along neighborhood lines, were also largely segregated.


I remember during my sophomore year of high school my god sister Janet got married to a white man.They were head over heels in love with each other and I had a crush on his cousin (his other cousin had a crush on me, so that ended up being a big mess, but that’s another story). As a Jehovah’s Witness, I understood that I could date whoever I wanted but I was only going to get married to another Witness. Because of our segregated upbringing, I always assumed that my husband would be black. But Janet married a white man from the west side, and everyone could see he was nuts about her. It was the first time I considered that the man of my dreams might not be the same race as me.


I am self employed, so I don’t have any co-workers. I hope that when I get to that stage I will hire a diverse team of passionate people, but I’d be lying if I didn’t say that my first hire will probably be another woman of color.


My church is a PWI (predominately white institution). We have only 10% people of color, making us the most diverse church in our Presbytery (of 39 congregations). My friends are old and young; gay, straight, and bi; black, white, Asian, and latino; male, female, trans, cis, and gender nonconforming. My best friend is a black woman. My mentors are a black man and a white woman, respectively, and my current romantic interest is a white man. I have noticed that I while my friends are mainly Christian, Buddhist or atheist, I don’t have any Muslim friends. I would like to have more meaningful conversations with Muslims outside of the interactions I have with them online or in bodegas. I think there is always room in my circle for people who think, live, and experience the world differently than I do.


Despite my increasingly diverse personal circle, my life is no Utopia. Now that I am more aware of the dynamics of race, privilege, and power, I can see that I experience racism and ‘shallow cuts’ on a daily basis. Here are a few recent examples:


March 1: Tonight was the first night of Lent. I went up to church for a Lenten supper that started at 6:30. My cousin, my Aunt and I were running a little behind schedule so we didn’t get there until around 6:50. All the tables were pretty full, and none of them had three seats available, so I just sat at an empty table. My Aunt and cousin sat down with me. A few minutes later, our friend Sue came and sat down with us (Sue is white). A few minutes after that, another white church member named Tammy that I don’t even know came over to our table and said the following: “I just had to come over here to break up the segregation.” She laughed, and we all laughed with her. I laughed to be polite, but I didn’t really think it was funny. What did she mean by segregation? Did she mean because we were all in the same family (except for Sue)? Or that we were all black (except Sue)? Was I being overly sensitive or was she being lightweight racist?


February 28: We had our wrap meeting for Black History Month committee. One of our members pointed out that the red, black, and green flag had been taken down from the front of the sanctuary, but the rainbow flag was still up. This probably would not have been a big deal except for the fact that last week, the red, green, and black flag was stolen from in front of our church, either by someone who loved it so much they wanted it in their own home or someone who hated it so much they wanted it taken down early. We don’t know which. But we did find it interesting that on the last day of the month our flag was taken down. Again, am I being too sensitive? Was our building manager simply being efficient, or was she instructed to get that flag down ASAP?


February 10: Our “Black Lives Matter Here” banner finally went up outside the church today. Our Church publicity director ordered an indoor and outdoor banner that said “Black Lives Matter Here” in white letters on black canvas. This was because our Black History Month theme was Speaking of Race: Black Lives Matter Here- What We Say and What We Do. The banner arrived in December. The indoor banner went up on February 1st. The outdoor banner was still not up when I went to church on February 8th, so I spoke to our building manager about it. She mentioned that our pastor had some concerns about it being a political statement. I reiterated to her that February was a short month and already more than 1/4 of the way over. She assured me that the banner would go up the next day. The next day, after a very emotional first session of PRISM, I went up to the church to drop off some groceries for the weekend and the banner was still not up. I texted my pastor to find out when our banner would go up. He told me he was visiting his mother and could we discuss it when he got back in town on Monday the 14th? I told him that I hoped his family was doing well but I would definitely need to speak with someone in his absence because the month would be half over by Monday. The next day, our banner finally went up. Why should I have to fight with church staff to get a banner up that says Black Lives Matter? A banner that affirms that my life matters? I was deeply disappointed and hurt to find out that despite all the progress my congregation has made, we still struggle with affirming the humanity and equality of people of color.


Cleveland has its challenges, and I can’t see myself spending the rest of my life confined to this city. I’d love to buy a farm outside of Oberlin Ohio in a few years. Oberlin is about 75% white, 4% Asian, 2 % Native American and 14% black. The median household income is just over $55,000 per year, similar to Cuyahoga county, but the poverty rate is 21%, slightly higher than Cuyahoga’s 18%. I worry that if I have children they won’t get the same excellent black history foundation that I received growing up, and that it might negatively impact their self esteem. I want them to love the skin they are born in and celebrate the richness of their cultural and ethnic background(s). I don’t feel like there is any ‘safe’ place to raise black children. But as I get older I worry more and more about them growing up on a little farm in Oberlin. Will the real world shock them? Will they put on plays about Dr. King in elementary school? Will they read Cullen and Keats? Will they know that they can be a doctor, an astronaut, an engineer, or a basketball player? If I marry a white man, will he know that our kids are black (in the eyes of society)? If we have a boy, will my husband be equipped to raise a black man? These are questions I never even considered in my twenties, and ones I still can’t answer.


It is impossible to distill the black experience into one single image or encounter. Race is a social structure, and like all collective creations is a nuanced amalgamation of hundreds upon thousands of experiences. At times, I have felt threatened. My armpits start to sweat whenever a police car gets behind me, and on road trips to Chicago, I still won’t stop for gas in Indiana when I’m by myself at night. Often, I feel like a minority. When I go to pitch competitions and all the other business owners are white, all the experts are white, all the funders are white, and all my competitors are white, I feel like a minority both because of my racial and socioeconomic identity. But in a way, I always feel secretly privileged. I still remember that the first people to walk this earth looked like me. I have learned that we all share a common female ancestor, and she too looked like me. I grew up with stories of ancestors strong enough to make life and new lives and lives while dying everyday-- a people who survived slavery, domestic terrorism, debt peonage, contract buying and other forms of housing segregation, Jim Crow, Mass Incarceration, political disenfranchisement, legal lynchings by police and still had enough rage, passion and hope to create gospel, jazz, bluegrass, rock and roll, funk, soul, hip hop, neo soul, and whatever you want to call that noise on the radio today. We are a strong people, and the legacy of that struggle lives on in me. And while I am never allowed to forget that I am a minority in this country, I am equally aware that as a black woman, I am in the majority group of the global population.

I love this brown skin I have lived and loved the last thirty one years in, and I am hopeful that the rest of the world will come to love me too, just as I am. I nurture this hope by working for change within predominantly white institutions. And I feed it with positive quotes like this one from online personality (and #officialBlackGirlCrush) Jacob Michael Mason: “Her skin absorbs the sun’s rays and her hair defies gravity. You can’t tell me that black women aren’t magical.”

Sunday, December 18, 2016

Deeply Rooted: Getting Longer, Stronger Natural Hair Using the Lunar Method


When I was a little girl, my mother used to trim my ends every blue moon. I never thought to ask why-- this was the way things had always been, the way my grandmother had trimmed her ends, the way her grandmother had done before her. Some things you didn’t argue with. Some things just were.

Little did I know that our family tradition was deeply rooted in both indigenous wisdom and empirical evidence.

Native peoples recognized thousands of years ago that the natural rhythms of the earth were mirrored within our own bodies. Some cultures deified different aspects of nature, like the sun, moon, and stars, while others  worshiped nature itself, building monuments like Stonehenge and Chichen Itza in celebration of astronomical phenomena like solstices and equinoxes.

In the late seventeen hundreds, scientists began tracking tides, spurring them to formally investigate the relationship between the cycles of the moon and changing tide levels. Here’s what they discovered:

  • Tides are created by the gravitational force of the moon pulling on water.
  • This force is highest when the moon is full or new, because the earth, moon and sun are aligned.
  • During the new and full moon, high tides are at their highest and low tides are at their lowest. This is called Spring Tide.
  • When the moon is one quarter full, the moon and sun’s gravitational pull cancel each other out, causing the opposite effect: weak or Neap Tides.

So what does the moon’s gravitational pull have to do with getting thicker, longer, stronger, and healthier natural hair?

Nine months ago I discovered an interesting theory by a veteran holistic stylist named Anthony Morrocco, a simple yet profound theory that he has based a multi-million dollar haircare brand around: The same gravitational forces that impact the water outside of your body impact the water inside your body.

Simply put, if you want your hair to grow fast, you should work with gravity, not against it.

The best time to cut your hair to encourage growth is during Spring tide when gravity is pulling water outward. Cutting during Neap tide encourages stagnation, which makes it the ideal time to remove unwanted body hair.


For the past nine months I have been using the Lunar method to promote hair growth, and so far I love my results!



Not only is my natural hair thicker than ever and growing like a weed, I only have to trim my ends four times each year, on the full moon closest to the winter and summer solstices and vernal and autumnal equinoxes.

This year marks a once in a lifetime growth opportunity for naturalistas like me. The last full moon of 2016 coincides with the winter solstice, a once every twenty year or so phenomena that won't happen again until 2094.

That makes this Wednesday, December 22nd the most beneficial growth cutting day for the next 78 years.

During the winter solstice, the sun is farthest away from the earth, causing the tides to swell or ‘bulge’. These bulges have been known to cause high tides or even coastal flooding when the gravitational effect of the equinox is combined with the natural increased pull of the full moon.

For many indigenous cultures, the Solstice also signifies the beginning of a new season and a spiritually significant period of rebirth. That makes it the best possible time to set goals and start the healthy hair habits that will ensure you achieve them.

Here are four simple tips that will help you maximize your length retention on the best beneficial hair-cutting day for the next 78 years.




While your hair is only about five percent water, the scalp it grows out of is over sixty percent water. Healthy hair starts at the roots, so it’s essential that you drink enough water to maintain a strong and healthy scalp. To make sure you’re maximizing growth potential, challenge yourself to drink one ounce per pound of sixty percent of your body weight in water ounces during the week of the solstice. To easily calculate what your ideal water intake is, simply take half your body weight plus ten percent, then switch pounds for ounces.

For example, a 150 pound woman would need to drink a minimum of 90 ounces (75 pounds plus 15 pounds) of water each day.






Sage has naturally antibiotic and antiseptic properties and has been used for centuries to treat hair loss and stimulate cell regeneration. Try this easy three ingredient sage oil to stimulate your scalp before and after the Winter Solstice.

Combine one part whole sage, one part castor oil, and two parts Olive (very dry hair), Sweet Almond (dry hair), or Grapeseed (normal hair) oil in a medium skillet. Heat on low about fifteen minutes or until oil turns dark (but is not burnt or smoking). Strain the oil into dropper or roll on bottle. Apply to scalp nightly, massaging the oil into your scalp for three minutes before bed.





I have tried a lot of crap methods, but to me nothing works better that trimming freshly washed and detangled hair with a pair of nail scissors. The twists allow you to clearly see where ends are split or heat damaged, and the nail scissors are sharp, guaranteeing a precise trim.

I start by detangling my dripping wet hair with a denman brush. After detangling a two inch square section, I twist it loosely into a two strand twist. Once I have detangled my entire head, I trim the dead or damaged ends of each twist with my nail scissors.

Side note-- I save my ends, rolling them up inside a list I make of all the the things I want to leave behind in the coming season. Then I burn the hair and the list in a symbolic ritual of new beginnings; but do you.




Using a seed or carrier oil or butter, fully saturate the last two inches of your freshly trimmed twists. As they dry they will continue to absorb the oil, forming a protective barrier for your sensitive ends and aiding in length retention. You can even use the sage oil from step two to help protect your ends.

These four easy steps will help you maximize hair growth in the upcoming season. By learning the Lunar method, you can harness the power of gravity to improve the condition of your scalp and grow long, strong, beautifully healthy natural hair.

Take advantage of the best possible day to get a fresh start. As the winter solstice begins a new season, consider beginning new healthy hair habits that will benefit yourself and your family for generations to come.

Saturday, November 12, 2016

HAIR AND NOW: My Favorite 4: Ridiculously Easy DIY Conditioner Recipes for Naturals

Winter is coming--- in more ways than one since Donald Trump will soon take office.

I will share my thoughts on our impending doom in another post that is still a work in progress. It started as an open letter to our first female President and now is mostly composed of invectives and incoherent sobbing. But I digress.

Winter is my favorite season. Snow is a great equalizer. Beneath its crystalline blanket, every neighborhood looks like a postcard.
Yet winter’s dry air and harsh winds take a toll on my eczema, not to mention my natural hair.

Over the past few years, my hair and I have developed a love/hate relationship with winter. On the one hand, less rain and humidity adds miles to my stretched styles. On the other hand, colder weather and harsh wind often leaves my curls dry and tangled while my scalp gets itchy and flaky. Usually by January I have given up on wearing my hair out and rock a sew in, only to lament the heat damage I caused in my leave out area. I’ve started many a spring with a mini chop.

Sound familiar?

Keep reading.

Nine years as a Naturalista has given me the opportunity to try out just about every DIY treatment on the internets, from rare to ridiculous (Yes I did try fish oil and NO you do not want to smell like that shit for a week). Now I could share all my favorites with you in this week’s hair and now, but if I did that, you wouldn’t have a reason to keep coming back every Friday(I’m getting back on schedule, I promise).

Plus, I really enjoy doling out information like a miserly psychic.


So instead of a top ten list, I’m sharing My Favorite 4: Ridiculously Easy DIY Conditioner Recipes for Naturals that will keep your curls healthy and hydrated all winter long.





Note: You will need a stove, a microwave, and a blender or Magic Bullet to make most of these recipes. These products are all natural and will spoil, so use it all or freeze what you have left. Most ingredients can be found affordably online or at your local Indian or Asian grocer. If you need help sourcing an ingredient, leave a comment below and I’ll help!


The problem: Flaky, dry scalp


Snow belongs on the ground, not your shoulders. Keep your scalp (and sweater) flake free with this all natural DIY deep conditioner. Borage softens and nourishes dry skin, which is why it is a common ingredient in eczema relief products. Rosemary and Tea Tree Oil fight dandruff and Sage has been used to stimulate hair growth.
 


The Problem: Dull hair days

Dry winter air can lead to dull winter hair. If you want supermodel shine to rival the Victoria Secret fashion show, Mango butter is your new best friend. This three ingredient miracle mask adds shine to hair without weighing it down.



The problem: Heat protecting

Your winter of stretched styles should not result in a spring mini chop. You can have beautiful straight and stretched styles without heat damaged hair if you prepare your hair correctly for straight styling. Curls are very fragile, and curls stretch best when they are properly moisturized. Products that contain softening sweeteners like molasses or honey help add elasticity to your curls so that they can ‘bounce back’ from straightening.




The problem: Color treated curls


Color treated natural hair is especially fragile. It need lots of vitamins and minerals to beef up tiny tears in the cuticle that can cause breakage. Enter Fenugreek. This incredible hulk of a legume is packed with iron, potassium, calcium, selenium, copper, zinc, manganese, and magnesium, not to mention Vitamins A and C. The only drawback? They smell kind of beany. You may want to add a few drops of vanilla extract to the final product for scent.



So there you have it. Everything you need to turn winter hair woes into winter hair Whoa! Give your curls a little TLC this weekend and let me know how it worked for you in the comments below.

And if you want more haircare, skincare, and selfcare products made from only the best nourishing all natural ingredients, check out my Etsy shop. In the meantime,

Keep Shining,



A


Friday, October 7, 2016

Hair and Now: The Ten Commandments of Natural Hair



Going natural before 2008 was a bit like being a pioneer on the Oregon trail, minus the wholesale slaughter of indigenous people. Pre-Obaman Naturalistas were forced to forage the internet for scraps of information on hair typing, styling aids, and porosity levels. Using a primitive system of communication called message boards (an ancient predecessor of Snapchat), these early puff pioneers shared best practices, products, and DIY recipes; creating an unofficial liturgy for new converts to follow.


In our very first Hair and Now (a repeating segment which comes out on Fridays if I remember to publish it), MYStory BOTB brings you the Ten Commandments of Natural Hair.


Commandment One: Thou Shalt detangle from the bottom up.


Kinky, curly hair is actually more fragile than straight hair. Each curl point holds the potential for breakage and to add insult to injury, the curlier your hair is, the more difficult it is for moisturizing products to travel all the way down the strand. This is why many naturals struggle with dry, brittle ends. One way to baby your ends (and retain length) is to apply detangler to the ends of wet hair and gently comb, brush, or finger detangle your hair from the ends to the roots. The gold standard for detangling natural hair with minimum breakage is a Denman Brush. These brushes contain five (or more) rows of smooth nylon pins that won’t snag or snare your curls, making detangling a snap.


Commandment Two: Thou Shalt be patient...


Remember when you had a relaxer and you could just toss your hair up in a messy bun or clip on a ponytail when you didn’t feel like styling it? Yeah, Um, natural hair is NOT like that. Natural hair is more like natural look makeup-- it takes time, product, and a surprising amount of moisturizer. A lack of patience can seriously sabotage your growth goals. Detangling my collarbone length hair takes me about twenty five minutes. Depending on the length/ thickness of your mane, you may need to allot up to an hour for detangling alone. Be patient and take your time. Rushing through detangling will leave you with a head full of split ends-- trust me.


Patience is also a virtue when it comes to separating. If your hair is not 100% bone dry before you separate, it’s going to frizz. An easy hack for still damp hair is to cover your head with a pleated turban and sit under the dryer for twenty minutes. The turban wicks away moisture while the satin texture reduces frizz.


Always use a pure, natural carrier oil to separate your strands. Natural oils not only add shine, they are easily absorbed into the cuticle, improving the condition of your fro while you flaunt.


Commandement Three: Thou Shalt not cheat


Natural hair is hair that has not been chemically altered, period. Texturizers, Tex-laxers, Kiddie Perms and Brazilian Keratin treatments are all just fancy names for chemicals meant to weaken the bonds of your coils, making hair easier to straighten. Contrary to popular belief, these treatments are not safer for your hair than relaxers. In fact, California attorney general Kamala Harris (aka female Barack Obama) recently brought charges against a major keratin treatment manufacturer for misleading labeling and high levels of formaldehyde in the product.


With time and a little effort, it is possible to maintain healthy, nourished straight natural hair without relying on chemical cheats. Google ‘straight natural hair’ for inspiration, advice, and best practices.


Commandment Four: Thou Shalt have laid edges


Laid edges cover a multitude of sins. Whether you brush your edges forward or back, intentionally styled baby hair adds a level of sleekness to any natural hairstyle. For banging baby hair every day, all you need is a spray bottle of water, some edge control, a toothbrush, and a wide headband or old knee-hi.


First dampen your edges with water. Using the toothbrush, lay the hairs in the desired position. Hold your edges in place by applying a thin layer of (preferably nourishing) edge control-- we like Slick Stick edge control by Golden Goddess Cosmetics for the easy to use applicator stick. Brush all the edge control in with your toothbrush until no product is visible. Use your wide headband or old knee-hi to hold edges in place for 10-15 minutes, et voila! Perfectly laid edges.


Commandment Five: Thou Shalt have good hair habits


Long, healthy hair starts with a good foundation. These three good hair habits will keep your locks looking their best.


  1. No more towels: According to Dana Oliver, Fashion and Beauty editor at Huffington Post, “the coarse texture and dryness of a cotton or terry cloth towel can cause damage to the hair.” Towels create friction, which magnifies frizz, multiples split ends, and leads to dreaded single strand knots. Instead of using a towel, gently pat tresses dry using an old t-shirt, satin robe, or nylon/satin pillowcase.
  2. Low manipulation: Think of your coils like a slinky. If you are constantly tugging, twisting, or pulling on them, eventually even the strongest strands will break under the pressure. Instead of torturing your tresses, give them a break by using low manipulation and protective styles. Protective styles are hairstyles (like flat twists, crown braids, or buns) where your ends are safely tucked away. Low manipulation styles are hairstyles (like twist-outs, bantu knots, and tuck and rolls) that don’t need to be combed or brushed daily.
  3. Sleep on satin: Same concept here as with the towels. The less friction and abrasion your hair has to deal with, the longer and healthier it will be. The term ‘Satin’ does not refer to a fabric, but a texture. The satin texture is created by densely weaving fabric in primarily the same direction as the weft. The result is a supersmooth fabric with less interlocking points that could cause snags or tangles. Savvy naturals never let any other texture touch their curls.


Commandment Six: Thou shalt become friends with water


Water might be a creamy crackhead’s public enemy number one, but it’s a Naturalista’s new BFF. Moisturized hair is healthy hair, and nothing moisturizes better than plain old H2O. Hydrate your curls from the inside out by drinking at least half your body weight in water each day. Then follow up by purchasing a fine mist spray bottle ($1-$2 at Family Dollar stores). Be sure to mist your hair before you apply any styling,sealing, or conditioning products. These products are designed to help lock in moisture, which means it’s a waste of time and money to put them on bone dry hair.


Commandment Seven: Thou Shalt LOC or LCO


LOC stands for Liquid-Oil-Cream, a three step moisturizing process invented by Natural Hair blogger and vlogger Chicoro circa 2008. LCO is a minor modification (Liquid-Cream-Oil), but the concept is the same. After applying a liquid moisturizer (water and/or a spray on leave in conditioner), you apply a cream or oil based moisturizer, followed by an oil or cream based sealant. The three steps work in tandem to slow the rate at which water evaporates from your hair, giving your strands time to absorb the much needed moisture.


It sounds complicated and time consuming, but it’s actually quick and easy. On wash day, I mist my clean, wet hair with Great Hair Day Conditioning Detangler (L), then run a generous amount of Whipped Shea Body Butter (C) from roots to ends. After detangling, I coat my ends with Food Grade Coconut Oil (O) (all by Golden Goddess Cosmetics).


Commandment Eight: Thou Shalt not use sulfates


Sulfates are harsh detergents that cut through dirt grease and grime. That’s why we use them in dishwashing liquid, laundry soap, and industrial hand soaps (think the pink soap from middle school). Your hair is not a sweat stained T-shirt or a pan of baked on lasagna, so these cleansers are way too harsh for delicate curls. In fact, sulfates have been proven to cause skin irritation, which manifests on your scalp as dandruff.


Sulfate free cleansers clean your hair and scalp without stripping them of the naturally occurring oils they need to thrive.Avoid any shampoo or cowash that contains Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) or Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS). Which brings us to...


Commandment Nine: Thou shalt read ingredients


Marketers are sneaky little bastards Just like the ‘Mad Men’ of Madison avenue realized in the 1960’s that it was more profitable to call black consumers African American than Negro and swiftly followed suit, savvy marketers know that putting the words ‘pure’ or ‘natural’ on the box makes consumers feel more comfortable about what’s inside. The FDA requirements for putting ‘pure’ on a label are woefully inadequate. If a product has 51% or more of the billed ingredient, it can be labeled ‘pure’. In other words, I can sell you a bottle that is 51.5% coconut oil and 48.5% arsenic and still call it ‘pure coconut oil’.


That’s why it’s especially important for naturals to inspect what you expect. Don’t just read the label. Read the entire list of ingredients. Ingredients are listed by concentration, so whatever is listed first is what the product mainly consists of. Check out this list of ingredients for the ever popular Eco-Styler Gel (made with Olive Oil):


Ingredients of ECO- STYLER GEL:


1. WATER (AQUA)
2. carbomer- a derivation of acrylic acid
3. Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
4. PVP-- polyvinlypyrollidone, a chemical used in hot glue sticks and inkjet cartridges
5. glycerin
6. triethanolamine-- a 'Strong base', just like sodium hydroxide, the active ingredient in relaxers
7. Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate-- a biodegradable preservative
8. polysorbate 20-- pretty harmless on its own but the process of making it produces a harmful byproduct (1,4 dioxane, a known cancer causing agent).
9. Tetrasodium Edta-- made from formaldehyde and sodium cyanide
10. Olive Oil
11. fragrance-- companies are not required to disclose what this is
12. Blue #1
13. Yellow #11


Olive oil doesn’t even show up until the end of the list! This product is mainly water and synthetic chemicals, despite what the label claims!


Learning what ingredients to avoid takes time and research, but a good general rule of thumb is: if you can’t pronounce it, it’s probably not good for you or your hair.

Commandment Ten: Thou Shalt not idolize YouTubers


Youtube is an amazing resource for new naturals, transitioners, and even experienced Naturalistas looking to learn a new style. I follow lots of Vloggers and next week I will be sharing some of Youtube’s rising stars in the next installment of Hair and Now. But just like the rest of the internet, Youtube is filled with information both good and bad, accurate and poorly researched. Never treat a Vlogger or Bloggers word as gospel (yes, even me). What works for one person’s hair may not work for yours. My hair, for example, doesn’t like protein. No amount of DIY deep conditioning will breathe life back into my curls after an Aphogee treatment. Yet many naturals swear by it. Take advantage of the amazing free resource that is Youtube, but never forget to inspect what you expect, and don’t be afraid to take what you need from a  video and ignore the rest.


If you follow these ten commandments religiously (*snicker snicker*), you’ll have healthy, strong and beautiful natural hair that is easy to manage and fun to style. If you ignore them... well...

ashy loretha.jpg


You might end up like Ashy Loretha.